The Alchemist’s Wife owner breaks down skincare ingredients
Ramie Gulyas, owner of Evanston apothecary The Alchemist’s Wife at 2016 Central St., has been mixing natural skincare formulas for more than 10 years. Before starting her own skincare company, Gulyas worked for several fragrance and cosmetic companies, including Crabtree & Evelyn, Caswell-Massey and Molton Brown.
Gulyas reviewed a recent skincare ingredient study published by Northwestern Medicine and said she wasn’t surprised at the list of top-rated ingredients, which are all known to be safe and effective.
Here’s her take on three of the top-ranked ingredients, all of which she uses in many of her skin care formulations — retinol, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid.
Retinoids/retinol
Off the bat, Gulyas explained that there’s a difference between retinoids and retinol. Retinoids are what she called an umbrella category that encompasses all vitamin A derivatives. An example would be tretinoin, which is a prescription strength medication that treats acne in younger adults and is used by older adults for fine lines.
Retinol, which you can find in over-the-counter skincare products, is also a derivative of vitamin A, but it’s a specific kind of retinoid that’s gentler than the prescription.
According to Gulyas, the efficacy of retinol can depend on what it’s mixed with. Both vitamin C and hyaluronic acid are good complements for it.
“Retinol works to turn over new cells, and it tells your body to produce collagen, and it turns over new cells more quickly,” Gulyas explained. “And to help achieve younger looking skin, you pair retinol with hyaluronic acid because it’s a humectant, attracting moisture out of the air.”
Regarding over-the-counter skin care, including products with retinol, Gulyas said the key is ingredient quality and knowing where things are sourced from. Specifically, she said, products produced in Europe go through a much more rigorous approval process, including required safety assessments and an on-record manufacturer or importer who is legally accountable for compliance. She added that many of these regulated EU skincare products are available online in the U.S., including La Roche-Posay, which is manufactured in France.
In her shop, Gulyas produces a serum using a retinol alternative called bakuchiol, which also offers antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits.
“Bakuchiol is extracted from the seeds of the babchi plant, and it’s fantastic for all ages,” she said. “It minimizes fine lines, it helps plump and fill, but it also helps turn over new cells in a way that retinol does without it being harsh.”
While bakuchiol can stand alone, Gulyas said she pairs her serum with hyaluronic acid, which helps with moisture absorption and retention.
Vitamin C
When it comes to vitamin C, which helps brighten and reduce dark spots, Gulyas recommended using a formulation that pairs vitamin C with another ingredient, for example hyaluronic acid, to again help lock in the benefits but also create a gentler experience.
“Vitamin C is used in a lot of med spa facials, and it’s very strong. So, [unlike] most ingredients you don’t necessarily feel, you will feel vitamin C,” she said. “Pairing it with another ingredient takes away some of that kind of chemical burn feeling.”
Also, she added, you want to be careful about doubling up on certain ingredients. For example, you don’t want to combine things like vitamin C and a high-dose retinol, because both cause sun-sensitivity. For that reason, she also suggested that if you use vitamin C or a retinol serum, it’s best to apply those at night.
One of the most important considerations, Gulyas said, is the type of bottle used to store vitamin C skincare products, because they’re less stable and also sensitive to heat and light in your house.
“Never buy vitamin C in a clear or frosted container, because light will likely have damaged it before you’ve even purchased it, and frequently the active ingredient is no longer active,” she advised. “I only produce one vitamin C formulation, and I keep my vitamin C products in the fridge.”
Hyaluronic acid
Gulyas uses hyaluronic acid in many of her products because it’s a natural ingredient that acts as a great carrier for other ingredients, but it also is really easy for your skin to absorb, she said.
“I always recommend pairing things with hyaluronic acid, and we customize several of our hyaluronic acid serums, like our green tea serum,” she said.
“We can customize a product using a hyaluronic acid and a blend of essential oils, specific for their skin type. We’ve created a blend that is for oily skin and acne called Deep Pore, and we have another one that is called Veloute [French for velvet] for older skin, sun damaged skin and for people who are starting to have fine lines you just don’t want.”
Finally, regarding multi-step skincare regimens, Gulyas’ recommendation is to keep things simple.
“If it’s something too complex, you’re not going to stick with it,” she said. “You’re going to buy a bunch of stuff, and you’re going to do the steps once or twice, and you’re going to stick it in your drawer or your closet and you’re never going to see it again.”
She added that when she works with her customers, she is “extremely, extremely specific” about what she recommends to customers, because age and skin type matter — a lot.
“It frightens me that little girls are going to Sephora and they’re spending $40 on a face cream that is entirely not made for their skin,” Gulyas said. “The ridiculous cost notwithstanding, a young kid should not be using these. They should not be using serums with vitamin C or vitamin A. They should not be using retinol.”
And, while exfoliating is important to slough off dead skin cells, the frequency varies depending on age, too.
“If you are a teenager with acne, if you exfoliate too often and too aggressively, you’re going to make your skin break out more and make it red versus what you’re trying to achieve, which is to heal and prevent breakouts,” she said. “Do not use salt in any form on your face, whether it’s a bar of soap or in a scrub. Those are meant to be used on your body. They are just too aggressive.”
For adult skin, Gulyas suggested gentle exfoliating five times a week, but staying clear of the eyes.
“I would stick to the T zone [forehead, nose and chin] and then after exfoliating or cleansing, follow up with a toner,” she said. “We have a rosewater toner that I like very much, and also a hydrating spray with vitamin E. That’s what I’ve been using all summer because it’s hydrating, and because anytime you’re out in the sun — the wind’s blowing, you’re in air conditioning — it’s just sucking all the moisture out of your skin.”
She also re-emphasized the importance of using high-quality, naturally-derived products made from regulated sources.
“The key is you must know the percentage of the acids or other active ingredients in any of products,” Gulyas said. “To save money, people are buying stuff online from other countries and from people they don’t know online. These products, and some med spas too, are highly unregulated. If you are getting an acid peel and laser treatment at the same time, you are likely going to end up with lesions on your face, and you’re risking serious damage and scarring.”
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